Bluegrass Mandolins

Mandolins

Standard F-5
Mother of Pearl / Abalone Flower Pot
Curved Fingerboard
Sitka / Slovakian Rock Maple
Satin Oil Varnish (Available Also in Semi Gloss)
X Braces or Tonebars

Tip: Running the length of the neck there is a simple truss rod, and at the end a hexagonal M5 (8mm) nut. This assembly allows customization of the neck position. Some players prefer a straight neck, but for an aggressive bluegrass picking style a slightly curved profile can be more advantageous. The curve reduces string buzz and rattle against the frets, especially when the player is "chopping" chords. With a new mandolin, it's best to begin with the nut only slightly tightened. During the first few weeks monitor the neck curvature by pressing the strings against the fretboard at the first and fifteenth fret. The ideal curvature will leave a slight gap (approximately .5mm) between the strings and the level of the frets. To attain this shape, gently tighten the nut. To return the neck to its original shape, it's best to carefully pull the neck back with one hand while adjusting the nut with the other. Don't use force!

F-5 Fern
Mother of Pearl / Abalone Inlay
Spirit Varnish
Sitka Top

Dark brown oil varnish
Mahogany back and neck
Engelman top

Sitka Top
Mahogany Back, Spirit Varnish
Mother of Pearl / Abalone / Czech Garnet Inlay

Tip: In the Central European conditions, the usual relative air humidity is 60-70% throughout summer months, compared to 30-20% throughout winter. Naturally, this shows up on the instruments with arched front by a temporary increase of curvature during the more humid months outside the heating season. On the mandolin, this difference might come up to 1.5-2mm. This is why there might arise a need for compensating these changes by using an adjustable bridge. Using a humidifier (even a mid-size raw potato placed into the case might do) during the winter can help, but it will not eliminate this effect completely.